NorBlack NorWhite

Photography courtesy of NorBlack NorWhite

CELINE SEMAAN: With your fashion brand, NorBlack NorWhite, you have redefined what sustainability means and have put at its heart the artisans and people of the Global South. What inspired you when you first started, and how has your company evolved?

MRIGA KAPADIYA: We started our business in 2010. My good friend and business partner, Amrit, and I traveled to certain regions in India to learn more about textiles. We ended up in Kutch, Gujarat, in northern India. There, we found a library of indigenous tie-dyed textiles called Bandhani. We asked to meet the library’s founder, who introduced us to one of the families still keeping the art alive in that region. The Khatris are a sprawling family of around 50 tie-dye artisans. The men are the dyers, and the women are the tyers. Their tie-dyed fabrics were familiar to us because many of my mom’s shawls and sarees are made from that fabric. There was a specific fabric with tiny ties that fascinated us. We learned that the smaller the ties and the closer they are together, the more expensive the fabric is. It’s a status symbol, a representation of luxury.

The first fabric we developed was with that family, and is why we ultimately started NorBlack NorWhite. The first design we created had diamond shapes that went from large to small. The family hadn’t seen this kind of design before, and were initially confused, but also excited, because the fabric looked really beautiful. We ended up staying for a week, and they welcomed us into their household. It was a life-changing experience. When we went back to Bombay, we met our tailor, Mohammed G, who is still our tailor 15 years later. Neither Amrit nor I had a background in fashion, so we worked intuitively, learning from the ground up. Growing up in Toronto as immigrants inspired us to share our vision with people who might never get to travel in India.

NorBlack NorWhite is about exploring the gray space, the space in between. The Global South is represented in a certain way. It isn’t black or white. Nothing is black or white; you need to dig a bit deeper. You must have a lived experience. You must ask questions, and you need to be there and be present in order to have that experience and understand the nuances of every situation and its context. We are exploring the gray space, the Global South, ourselves as immigrants, and ourselves as diaspora. We went back to India 15 years ago, when it wasn’t particularly cool to move back to your ancestral lands. I grew up watching Michael Jackson videos. His song “Black or White” and the accompanying video with the mash-up of different cultures was a powerful visual for me. That song and the video informed our name. It started as an art project, and then we built a business, almost by accident.

CELINE: Back when you started, 15 years ago, “Made in India” translated as cheap, child labor. There was a lot of misinformation about the label “Made in India” and NorBlack NorWhite. You transformed what “Made in India” means. And you really championed the idea of making things in India. Did you notice the misinformation about the “Made in India” label?

MRIGA: The landscape has changed so immensely, but we understood 15 years ago how people looked at us. We noticed that only the aesthetic of the Global North was highly regarded. But we also learned that so many of the large fashion houses produce their things in India and never claim that, because they complete the last 10% of the finishing back in Italy or France. One hundred years ago, those things were produced fully in France and Italy, in the ateliers with the craftspeople of that region. Because it’s too expensive now, people produce in India, but never acknowledge that fact. It’s so frustrating when you’re in it, and you see it. A huge part of our work is about celebrating and making sure people are aware of the breadth of Indian art and craft, and how incredible it is, and how it is redefining the meaning of luxury.

When hundreds of hours are being poured into a piece of fabric, it is art, and it is luxurious. But if it’s not being showcased during Paris Fashion Week, it’s not celebrated. We are endeavoring to put India and the arts and crafts of India at the forefront. We work to make sure people know it is made in India and also work to elevate what that actually means. Smaller groups of people working with ancestral knowledge and talent that gets passed down generation after generation is priceless to me. There isn’t one lane of sustainability for us. We are interested in cultural sustainability, in raising the idea of what this culture means to us. It’s a very personal experience. We’re not speaking on behalf of everybody. Everyone has their own relationship with India, with the diaspora, with being an immigrant. For us, it’s about creating a space for what we relate to in the culture and for what we love about the culture and how we see it, and how we’re bringing our cultures together and mashing up our worlds.

Of course, we’re working with specific fabrics and certain types of hand processes and hand techniques; we’re not mass producing. Greenwashing is frustrating. What is being used as a marketing term as opposed to being a methodology? For us, it’s really about cultural sustainability, about uplifting the value of being made in India, the value of the silk trade, the textile trade from the Global South. A lot of brands and fashion houses use the silhouettes of India, and then neutralize them with their colorways. They call it contemporary and raise the price by 1000s of dollars. The Global South is finally being celebrated and commercialized in a very different way now because people are ready.

CELINE: There needs to be a redefinition of what luxury means. Right now, luxury means status. It means that you identify with the colonial values of superiority. What you are proposing as an alternative idea of luxury comes with a whole other paradigm. Can you talk to me a little bit about what luxury means to you?

MRIGA: Luxury is expressed by how much knowledge is being passed on through a craft, a skill that you can’t learn in just a few months or years. These are arts, crafts, and skills that are created and passed down over generations by word-of-mouth and through lived experience. To me, that is legitimately priceless, and priceless is luxury. It is luxurious to experience the hands of somebody else, and the time it takes people to create a piece of art, as well as the amount of time it has taken for that knowledge to be passed down. People feel like they can study something for one year, three months, six months and then call themselves experts in a field. I feel like the sacredness of time has been stripped away. Time and luxury are correlated. Luxury involves passing down knowledge and the time and care that is required to produce a piece.

CELINE: NorBlack NorWhite is one of the most successful sustainable brands that exists. Tell me about how your collaboration with Nike came about.

MRIGA: Nike approached us two or three years ago. They were interested in our work and excited about us as women founders. We started building a relationship, and then they asked us to produce a collection with them. It was the first collaboration for them with anyone representing India. We worked within the Nike design framework, so there were definitely parameters to work within. For us, it was exciting as a platform. I grew up playing sports. It was a big part of my life, and it has become a big part of how I see the world… through play. It was an opportunity to bring our worlds together and give our representation of what it feels like to be a strong, resilient athlete in India.

Nike loved our perspective on how navigating India as a woman feels like playing a sport every day. So many things get thrown your way, and in the maze that is India, especially in the big cities, it feels like you’re running a marathon, and sometimes it feels like a relay. It feels like an athletic experience just to navigate India… and then navigating India as women, designing and creating and producing, and then also running a business. All of it feels like you have to have an athletic mindset, and so we aligned on that idea.

It was a beautiful experience to get to bring the collection to life by shooting our campaign in Jaipur. We hired professional athletes, cricket players, runners, and wrestlers from India, mixed with some of our friends and models. It was a nice ensemble of 12 women we felt were a great representation of the power of sport, and NorBlack NorWhite. Young people in India were so excited. They saw us as an underdog brand that was working with one of the largest brands in the world. It was an example of how things can happen in mysterious ways. It was never a goal of ours to work with Nike. But the way it unfolded was beautiful. A lot of people learned about us through the collaboration.

CELINE: Was there any backlash?

MRIGA: There are always going to be people who have no clue because they’ve never done any of this. We have learned over the last 15 years that as long as we feel good about what we’re doing and the way we’re doing it, we’re fine. We check in with our peers and our mentors to make sure that we are staying true to our ideals. We try to stay focused on how this collaboration opened doors for us and other people, rather than the negative noise in the background. There’s always going to be a backlash, but that’s part of the game.

CELINE: My last question is about your furniture collection and the way you put it together. And there’s a homeware collection that’s going to come out at some point. Tell me how all that came about?

MRIGA: The furniture collection was a project that came about through Vogue India. They asked us to contribute by playing with the idea of architecture and fashion in India. And so we created gradient covers for chairs. When we attend a gathering or a wedding in India, there are always big bows or silk or satin draped chair covers. They’re always really fun and have a specific aesthetic. So we thought about how we could design something like that. We’re not interested in designing chair covers for weddings, but by taking that idea out of that space and then putting it into a different context, into more of an art space, is what inspired us. We’ve been creating tapestries and lamp covers and building this chair project, and so there’s going to be a lot more to come from that. It’s exciting for us because we get to use everything we’ve learned for the last 15 years in a different form. We’re evolving as we grow and live. And we want to contribute everything we’ve learned in a form that feels more relatable to us. We never wanted to create a brand. It’s always been an art project, a platform for us to play and create. We’re entering a new chapter where we can play with something as simple as a chair and make it really beautiful, and talk about what that represents. We’re exploring how cultures connect, and the designs that weave through that make us feel at home while continuing to play with the aesthetic elements of the object or item of clothing.

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