Digital & Print Membership
Yearly + Receive 8 free printed back issues
$420 Annually
Monthly + Receive 3 free printed back issues
$40 Monthly
Shradha Kochhar on Threading the Needle with Care and Community

Award-winning textile artist Shradha Kochhar is renowned for her elaborate handspun knitted essays and khadi sculptures made of Kala cotton, techniques deeply rooted not only in the principles of sustainability, but also in Kochhar’s own attempt at deepening the collective memory of indigenous Indian textile work outside of Western influence. Born in Delhi but now based in Brooklyn, Kochhar brings these philosophies to her sold-out Drawing with Yarn workshop, a meditative haven that encourages people to slow down and play with texture, fabric, and their own creativity. Kochhar sat with journalist Ayesha Le Breton to chat about the outpour of support to her sessions, and how she began building a decolonial and intimate artistic practice to process grief and also create community.
Ayesha: What was the first textile you remember making?
Shradha: I used to sew a lot growing up. My father ran a garment factory, and I spent a lot of time with him there, learning how to sew with the karigars. For my family, textiles are so sacred. My paternal grandmother was a single parent of four boys. She knew how to knit, and she started selling these sweaters to take care of the family and get them out of poverty. Even though I went to fashion school, this ancestral university was bigger than any education I’ve had.
Ayesha: How does your Indian heritage influence your artistic practice?
Shradha: I spent the first 25 years of my life in India. Everything is informed by my roots: how I look at material, my work with cotton. It’s only evolved, now charting parallels between the legacy of cotton in India and America.
It also informs the way I interact with people and prioritize community. I’ve grown up around 15 people in the house at all times. I’ve knit with my grandmother, where my job was to massage her feet, and my mom’s job was to wind the yarn around her knees into balls. I try to recreate that dynamic in New York [with my workshops]; sharing skills, sharing conversations, giggles, songs, politics around a dinner table.

Workshop participants watch on, as Shradha shows her duplicate knit stitch tutorial.
Ayesha: What drew you to indigenous Kala cotton as the primary material for your art?
Shradha: I always saw my father in a crisp cotton Kurta pajama; that was his uniform. Cotton is meant to be this material that’s protecting you, taking care of you. It exists so viscerally and so universally: from medical bandages to tampons. It’s such an intimate material, and the only material that is talked about in India, exclusively—at least in the North Indian context. I was always somebody who was interested in origin. But I was working with wool and acrylic that I was just buying from yarn shops. Then my curiosity and guilt started: of making and not really knowing.
Then, I visited Kachchh [a district in Gujarat] where I spent time in a craft cluster, and saw how yarn is spun. In my brain, there was a hook that couldn’t let that visual go.
I started doing a lot of research at agricultural institutes in India. I found out most cotton [in India] was GMO strains exported from Alabama or America generally. There was a point when the only cotton grown in India was Kala, but now it’s only 3%, because it wasn’t compatible with British machinery. This heirloom cotton, which requires the love, the care, the patience of the hand, was copy-pasted to give the opposite of individuality; it needed to be homogeneous. When I was learning more about the material, it started making sense that we still live those realities today. The power is just in different hands this time. Now it’s my life’s work: it’s meant to be a mirror. This material is still so political and incredible. It offers so much beauty and care to people every day.
Ayesha: Your hand-knitted essays and Khadi sculptures are tangible archives of the personal and collective, deeply rooted in intergenerational healing and memory. Why do these themes resonate so strongly with you?
Shradha: When I lost my dad [in 2021], the only thing that I could think of tangibly was cotton. My life’s work is to build a monument, a soft monument, for my father. I think loss makes you lose your mind. You’re always trying to grip to something tactile that you can hold, and you can really bring yourself back to reality with.
Even though I’m making from a very specific place of loss, it’s also universal. I’m not the only one who has shared history with Kala cotton—it existed in parts of Africa, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. I’m juggling between micro and macro histories. It’s very intentional, my removal of color, the absence is thought through. The work needs to feel like a drawing book. Everyone comes in with their own creativity.

A floating knitted tapestry made from handspun and handknit Kala, unravelling interpersonal loss.
Ayesha: Could you elaborate on what creating art means to you?
Shradha: It’s a mode of survival for me. Who is truly at the end of the day there for me? It’s my spinning wheel and my hands that are capable of transforming.
One of my aspirations is to make art more accessible: Is that through conversations? Or through having people over in the home studio? For them to see how artists live, away from the gallery system or nonprofits where the realities are embellished and on a pedestal.
Ayesha: Sunday, November 9, was your final workshop of the year. Can you share more on what inspired you to open your studio to the public and host Drawing with Yarn?
Shradha: I was so exhausted from having opened a solo show that I was facing burnout. And I’ve always made [things] in isolation. But I’ve also always hosted people. My studio transitions into a living space where we’re eating a meal, we’re talking about art, we’re making, questioning, brainstorming. My practice talks about self-reliance. The fact that I can take a seed and transform it into cloth is the most self-reliant thing I know how to do. So how do I make my own opportunities? One way was to bring people together.
In my personal practice, I’ve truly enjoyed the duplicate knit stitch. I was making a lot of these [knit] drawings of me and my father during the funeral rituals. It was me and 40 to 50 people in a house. Everyone knew I still had to graduate. I still had to do my thesis work, so everyone was helping me knit these drawings. I never put that work out, but it became this personal archive of that very specific moment— a gesture of care. But now I just wanted to offer the technique to everyone who would be interested.
The workshop immediately sold out the first time. It’s made me value community exponentially over any institution.

Shradha pointing out art she’s made using the duplicate stitch that we were all about to learn in her workshop.
Ayesha: Tell me more about this experience of communal art making, and what are some key takeaways?
Shradha: It was also scary to have strangers. But again, I like reminding myself to be generous. It’s been so incredible. I made so many friends. We’ve had nine workshops, with about 15 to 17 people in each session. These workshops became a melting pot, which is a reflection of New York.

Shradha’s best friend Cheryl showing off her cherry in progress.
Ayesha: What’s next?
Shradha: Resting. I do have things in the works that I’m super excited about. I’m turning 30 next month, and I’ve been in the art world long enough to know what works for me, what I don’t stand for, and what I stand for: I want more agency as an artist. Next year, the way that’s going to show up is I’m doing a lot of limited edition objects that would be more accessible, and will be sold directly through my studio versus a gallery.
I want more people to live with my work.
In Conversation:
Photography by:
{
"article":
{
"title" : "Shradha Kochhar on Threading the Needle with Care and Community",
"author" : "Shradha Kochhar, Ayesha Le Breton",
"category" : "interviews",
"url" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/readings/shradha-kochhar-on-threading-the-needle-with-care-and-community",
"date" : "2025-11-10 15:05:00 -0500",
"img" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/uploads/Photo-by-Bea-Frank.jpg",
"excerpt" : "",
"content" : "Award-winning textile artist Shradha Kochhar is renowned for her elaborate handspun knitted essays and khadi sculptures made of Kala cotton, techniques deeply rooted not only in the principles of sustainability, but also in Kochhar’s own attempt at deepening the collective memory of indigenous Indian textile work outside of Western influence. Born in Delhi but now based in Brooklyn, Kochhar brings these philosophies to her sold-out Drawing with Yarn workshop, a meditative haven that encourages people to slow down and play with texture, fabric, and their own creativity. Kochhar sat with journalist Ayesha Le Breton to chat about the outpour of support to her sessions, and how she began building a decolonial and intimate artistic practice to process grief and also create community.Ayesha: What was the first textile you remember making?Shradha: I used to sew a lot growing up. My father ran a garment factory, and I spent a lot of time with him there, learning how to sew with the karigars. For my family, textiles are so sacred. My paternal grandmother was a single parent of four boys. She knew how to knit, and she started selling these sweaters to take care of the family and get them out of poverty. Even though I went to fashion school, this ancestral university was bigger than any education I’ve had.Ayesha: How does your Indian heritage influence your artistic practice?Shradha: I spent the first 25 years of my life in India. Everything is informed by my roots: how I look at material, my work with cotton. It’s only evolved, now charting parallels between the legacy of cotton in India and America.It also informs the way I interact with people and prioritize community. I’ve grown up around 15 people in the house at all times. I’ve knit with my grandmother, where my job was to massage her feet, and my mom’s job was to wind the yarn around her knees into balls. I try to recreate that dynamic in New York [with my workshops]; sharing skills, sharing conversations, giggles, songs, politics around a dinner table.Workshop participants watch on, as Shradha shows her duplicate knit stitch tutorial.Ayesha: What drew you to indigenous Kala cotton as the primary material for your art?Shradha: I always saw my father in a crisp cotton Kurta pajama; that was his uniform. Cotton is meant to be this material that’s protecting you, taking care of you. It exists so viscerally and so universally: from medical bandages to tampons. It’s such an intimate material, and the only material that is talked about in India, exclusively—at least in the North Indian context. I was always somebody who was interested in origin. But I was working with wool and acrylic that I was just buying from yarn shops. Then my curiosity and guilt started: of making and not really knowing.Then, I visited Kachchh [a district in Gujarat] where I spent time in a craft cluster, and saw how yarn is spun. In my brain, there was a hook that couldn’t let that visual go.I started doing a lot of research at agricultural institutes in India. I found out most cotton [in India] was GMO strains exported from Alabama or America generally. There was a point when the only cotton grown in India was Kala, but now it’s only 3%, because it wasn’t compatible with British machinery. This heirloom cotton, which requires the love, the care, the patience of the hand, was copy-pasted to give the opposite of individuality; it needed to be homogeneous. When I was learning more about the material, it started making sense that we still live those realities today. The power is just in different hands this time. Now it’s my life’s work: it’s meant to be a mirror. This material is still so political and incredible. It offers so much beauty and care to people every day.Ayesha: Your hand-knitted essays and Khadi sculptures are tangible archives of the personal and collective, deeply rooted in intergenerational healing and memory. Why do these themes resonate so strongly with you?Shradha: When I lost my dad [in 2021], the only thing that I could think of tangibly was cotton. My life’s work is to build a monument, a soft monument, for my father. I think loss makes you lose your mind. You’re always trying to grip to something tactile that you can hold, and you can really bring yourself back to reality with.Even though I’m making from a very specific place of loss, it’s also universal. I’m not the only one who has shared history with Kala cotton—it existed in parts of Africa, Pakistan, and Bangladesh. I’m juggling between micro and macro histories. It’s very intentional, my removal of color, the absence is thought through. The work needs to feel like a drawing book. Everyone comes in with their own creativity.A floating knitted tapestry made from handspun and handknit Kala, unravelling interpersonal loss.Ayesha: Could you elaborate on what creating art means to you?Shradha: It’s a mode of survival for me. Who is truly at the end of the day there for me? It’s my spinning wheel and my hands that are capable of transforming.One of my aspirations is to make art more accessible: Is that through conversations? Or through having people over in the home studio? For them to see how artists live, away from the gallery system or nonprofits where the realities are embellished and on a pedestal.Ayesha: Sunday, November 9, was your final workshop of the year. Can you share more on what inspired you to open your studio to the public and host Drawing with Yarn?Shradha: I was so exhausted from having opened a solo show that I was facing burnout. And I’ve always made [things] in isolation. But I’ve also always hosted people. My studio transitions into a living space where we’re eating a meal, we’re talking about art, we’re making, questioning, brainstorming. My practice talks about self-reliance. The fact that I can take a seed and transform it into cloth is the most self-reliant thing I know how to do. So how do I make my own opportunities? One way was to bring people together.In my personal practice, I’ve truly enjoyed the duplicate knit stitch. I was making a lot of these [knit] drawings of me and my father during the funeral rituals. It was me and 40 to 50 people in a house. Everyone knew I still had to graduate. I still had to do my thesis work, so everyone was helping me knit these drawings. I never put that work out, but it became this personal archive of that very specific moment— a gesture of care. But now I just wanted to offer the technique to everyone who would be interested.The workshop immediately sold out the first time. It’s made me value community exponentially over any institution.Shradha pointing out art she’s made using the duplicate stitch that we were all about to learn in her workshop.Ayesha: Tell me more about this experience of communal art making, and what are some key takeaways?Shradha: It was also scary to have strangers. But again, I like reminding myself to be generous. It’s been so incredible. I made so many friends. We’ve had nine workshops, with about 15 to 17 people in each session. These workshops became a melting pot, which is a reflection of New York.Shradha’s best friend Cheryl showing off her cherry in progress.Ayesha: What’s next?Shradha: Resting. I do have things in the works that I’m super excited about. I’m turning 30 next month, and I’ve been in the art world long enough to know what works for me, what I don’t stand for, and what I stand for: I want more agency as an artist. Next year, the way that’s going to show up is I’m doing a lot of limited edition objects that would be more accessible, and will be sold directly through my studio versus a gallery.I want more people to live with my work."
}
,
"relatedposts": [
{
"title" : "Mamdani & The Era of Possibilities",
"author" : "Collis Browne, Céline Semaan, EIP Editors",
"category" : "essays",
"url" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/readings/mamdani-and-the-era-of-possibilities",
"date" : "2026-01-01 12:25:00 -0500",
"img" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/uploads/zohran-inauguration-1.jpg",
"excerpt" : " What wins elections? Laser focus on challenging the brutal economic oppression that defines our global reality.",
"content" : " What wins elections? Laser focus on challenging the brutal economic oppression that defines our global reality.There is an air of undeniable hope. No matter how hard the knee-jerk catastrophic thinking might try to override with doubt, the moment is hopeful. This is proof of collective power. No matter what comes of it, we are already in a winning moment, because the people of New York city have toppled a dynasty built on greed and corruption. The entire world was inspired by this moment that was made possible by everyday people rallying together. That is how monopoly gets interrupted by people power. It’s not rocket science or AI, it’s sweat, effort, and in person collaboration.Let’s remember why this landslide engagement across political divides, why this excitement from communities and demographics who have never voted, and why this worldwide inspiration from a local election: it is a direct response to Mamdani’s laser focus on challenging the brutal economic oppression that defines our global reality.That is what wins elections; that is what inspires and unites the majority across age, ethnicity, race, and all other factors. Speaking the truth of the crushing economic reality that we live under.So now, resist the urge to follow the media’s double edge sword to fetishize and make individualized mythologies around Mamdani, his wife, the personal and aesthetic choices they are making. But continue to see them simply as people, continue to join forces with them and to remain educated, informed and most importantly not in silo but in community. Realize that we need thousands more like him who have decided that they can make a better mayor than these corrupt relics of the antiquated self-destructive past, and we need millions to always raise them up against those colluding with oligarchic corruption. And when the inevitable “fall from grace” comes, when the “media darling” moment wants to swing the other way and vilify him, resist the urge to jump on and make him any more important than but one human who wanted to make a difference in a dehumanizing system — focus on the system.Resist the urge to join in a culture war, to focus on religion or lifestyle or taste or how we spend our time as non-billionaires, and remain focused on what we can all be doing daily to gather power away from the centers of wealth and exploitation.Resist the urge to isolate in ideals, instead join the messy moment of change by being an active participant in the political spaces you wish existed.The moment calls for more action. This year, 2026, begins a new cycle filled with possibilities and people power. The moment is you. It is now. Continue to be present, be active, and take your place in making the future possible. Being an active part of your world is the antidote to the overwhelming feeling of disempowerment. The ways in which we rise, is through verbs and action. Excited to build with you all internationally and locally here in New York City. Our city."
}
,
{
"title" : "Narrative Sovereignty in the American Wing of The Met: Don't Miss ENCODED at the MET",
"author" : "",
"category" : "",
"url" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/readings/narrative-sovereignty-in-the-american-wing-of-the-met",
"date" : "2025-12-22 12:58:00 -0500",
"img" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/uploads/Cover_EIP_Hidden_Exhibition.jpg",
"excerpt" : "As artists and multicultural activists, we did not come to the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s American Wing seeking permission, instead we showed up to the work with intention, responsibility, and a commitment to truth. ENCODED: Change the Story, Change the Future exists because silence is not neutral, presence without agency is insufficient and solidarity across values-based creativity is essential for liberation.",
"content" : "As artists and multicultural activists, we did not come to the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s American Wing seeking permission, instead we showed up to the work with intention, responsibility, and a commitment to truth. ENCODED: Change the Story, Change the Future exists because silence is not neutral, presence without agency is insufficient and solidarity across values-based creativity is essential for liberation.The American Wing is often described as a celebration of American art, yet it also functions as a carefully curated archive of colonial mythology and westward expansion propaganda. Its paintings and sculptures rehearse familiar narratives: conquest framed as destiny, extraction framed as progress, whiteness framed as purity, Indigenous absence framed as inevitability. These works are not merely historical artifacts; they are instruments of narrative power. They encode ideas about belonging, legitimacy, and nationhood, ideas that continue to shape cultural consciousness and public policy today. ENCODED intervenes in this institutional space not to negate history, but to complicate it. Using augmented reality, the exhibition overlays Indigenous artistic expression and counter-narratives directly onto famous works in the American Wing, reframing them through Indigenous epistemologies, lived experience, and historical truth. This is not an act of erasure. It is an act of expansion and an overt insistence that American art history is incomplete without Indigenous voice, presence, and critique.At its core, ENCODED is grounded in the principle of narrative sovereignty. Narrative sovereignty asserts that communities most impacted by historical and ongoing harm such as Indigenous peoples, Afro-descendant people, Palestinians, Pacific Islanders, Trans folks and the working class all must have the authority to tell their own stories, in their own words, and within the institutions that have historically excluded or misrepresented them. This is not a symbolic gesture. It is a democratic imperative.Democracy depends on access to truth. When museums present a singular, sanitized vision of history, they do not merely reflect power, they reinforce it. The American Wing has long upheld myths of “taming the West” and the so-called exhaustion of empire, narratives that obscure the violence of settler colonialism, normalize Indigenous dispossession and chattel slavery. ENCODED challenges these myths by making visible what has been omitted: resistance, survival, continuity, solidarity and accountability. For me, I also hope this intervention reflects back to museum goers and viewers the perils of authoritarianism, fascism and ongoing colonial projects such as legacy media consolidation, rapid creation of datacenters to produce AI, cutting access to healthcare, education, rights, or the current US regime’s attempt to erase history by any means necessary.The artists participating in ENCODED are not responding nostalgically to the past. They are engaging the present. Their work examines how colonial narratives persist in contemporary systems including environmental destruction justified by extraction, racial hierarchies reinforced through cultural storytelling, and institutions that benefit from the aesthetics of inclusion while resisting structural change. These are not abstract critiques; they are lived realities and for me deep lessons that have been shaped by having formerly worked at a neocolonial conservation nonprofit ran by wealthy cis wyt men and their enablers for nearly five years.Artistic integrity, in this context, cannot be separated from ethical responsibility. For too long, the art world has upheld a false binary between aesthetics and politics, suggesting that rigor diminishes when artists engage power directly. ENCODED rejects this premise. Integrity is not neutrality. Integrity is the willingness to tell the truth, even when it destabilizes comfort or prestige. Walking with integrity can be painful and takes courage.Importantly, ENCODED is not positioned as a protest staged outside the institution, nor as a request for institutional validation. It is an act of presence with agency. The project uses accessible technology to meet audiences where they are, inviting participation rather than reverence. Viewers scan QR codes and encounter layered narratives that ask them to look again, listen differently, and question inherited assumptions. Except for a few organized tours, the experience is self-guided, decentralized, and deliberately democratic. It’s also fun, and it is so special to hear the familiar sounds from the ENCODED pieces ring throughout the galleries signalling that kin is close by.This kinship network and accessibility is central to the work. Cultural literacy should not be gated by academic language, curatorial authority, white exceptionalism or economic privilege. By operating through personal devices, ENCODED rejects the museum’s traditional hierarchy of knowledge and affirms that interpretation is a shared civic space. The exhibition does not dictate conclusions; it creates conditions for reckoning and deep dialogue.Solidarity is another foundational principle of the project. ENCODED brings together Indigenous artists across nations and disciplines, in relationship with Black, Brown, and allied communities who recognize that colonialism is not a single-issue structure. The logics that dispossessed Indigenous peoples are the same logics that underwrote slavery, environmental exploitation, the seizing of Palestine, forced child mining labor of cobalt in Congo and in general global empire. Working in solidarity does not collapse difference; it honors specificity while resisting division and acknowledging historic patterns of systemic oppression.In a cultural landscape shaped by scarcity and competition, ENCODED models an alternative, one rooted in collective presence, shared resources, and mutual accountability. The project refuses the extractive norms of both empire and the contemporary art economy, offering instead a relational approach grounded in care, collaboration, and long-term impact on community.The decision to situate ENCODED within the American Wing was deliberate. Indigenous art has too often been confined to anthropological contexts or framed as premodern, separate from the narrative of American art. ENCODED asserts what has always been true: Indigenous peoples are not peripheral to American history; we are foundational to it. Our stories do not belong on the margins, nor do they belong solely to the past or through a white gaze.Yet presence without counter-narrative risks assimilation. ENCODED insists that visibility must be accompanied by authorship. By intervening directly within the American Wing, the project challenges the authority of colonial framing and invites institutions to reckon with their role in shaping public memory. Our hope is that eventually the Met will see this as an opportunity to engage in discussion and support its presence well into 2026.There is risk in this work. Naming colonial propaganda within revered institutions invites discomfort, defensiveness, and critique. But risk is inseparable from integrity. Artists and cultural workers are accountable not only to institutions and audiences, but to future generations. The question is not whether institutions will change, but whether artists will continue to lead with courage when they do not.ENCODED is an offering and a provocation. It asks what it means to inherit a cultural legacy and whether we are willing to transform it. Empire is not exhausted; it is contested. And art remains one of the most powerful sites of that contestation. When we change the story, we do change the future. Not through erasure, but through expansion. Not through dominance, but through relationship.Ultimately, ENCODED affirms that art is not merely a reflection of society, but a tool for shaping it and that when artists from the margins claim space at the center, together and with integrity, we open pathways toward a more honest, inclusive, and democratic cultural future. Join us.To access ENCODED review the exhibit website for instructions. While at the Met scan the QR code and click through the prompts for the self guided tour.https://www.encodedatthemet.com"
}
,
{
"title" : "The Aesthetics of Atrocity: Lockheed Martin’s Streetwear Pivot",
"author" : "Louis Pisano",
"category" : "",
"url" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/readings/the-aesthetics-of-atrocity",
"date" : "2025-12-20 10:30:00 -0500",
"img" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/uploads/Cover_EIP_Lockheed_StreetWar.jpg",
"excerpt" : "On December 12, The Business of Fashion published an article titled “The Unlikely Rise and Uncertain Future of Lockheed Martin Streetwear,” detailing the world’s largest arms manufacturer’s entrance into casual apparel.",
"content" : "On December 12, The Business of Fashion published an article titled “The Unlikely Rise and Uncertain Future of Lockheed Martin Streetwear,” detailing the world’s largest arms manufacturer’s entrance into casual apparel.Through a licensing deal with South Korea’s Doojin Yanghang Corp., Lockheed turns fighter jet graphics, corporate slogans, and its star logo into gorpcore staples. Oversized outerwear, tactical pants, and advanced synthetic fabrics sell out at Seoul pop-ups like the Hyundai department store with young Korean consumers chasing the edgy, functional vibe. Andy Koh, a Seoul-based content creator, tells BoF that while arms manufacturing is, in theory, political, he has never encountered widespread discomfort among Korean consumers. “As long as it looks cool and the product functions as expected,” he says, “they seem okay with it.”This trend aligns with a broader South Korean fashion phenomenon: licensing logos from global non-fashion brands to create popular streetwear lines. Examples include National Geographic puffers, Yale crewnecks, Kodak retro tees, CNN hoodies, Discovery jackets, Jeep outdoor wear, and university apparel from institutions like Harvard and UCLA. These licensed collections, often featuring media, academia, sports leagues, or adventure themes, have become staples on online retailers like Musinsa and in brick-and-mortar stores, propelled by K-pop influence and a tech-savvy youth market that make these odd crossovers multimillion-dollar successes.Lockheed, however, is categorically different. Its core business is not exploration, education, or journalism. It is industrialized death, and its arrival in fashion forces a reckoning with how far commodification can stretch.Having spent years in the military, maybe I’m the wrong person to critique this. Or maybe I’m exactly the right one. I know what weapons are for, how they’re used, and the human cost they carry. Lockheed manufactures F-16 and F-35 fighter jets, Hellfire missiles, and precision-guided systems that human rights organizations have repeatedly linked to civilian casualties across multiple conflicts. In Yemen, U.S.-supplied weapons incorporating Lockheed technology contributed to thousands of civilian deaths since 2015, most notoriously the 2018 airstrike on a school bus in Saada that killed dozens of children. In Gaza, since October 2023, Lockheed-supplied F-35s and munitions have formed the backbone of air operations that Amnesty International and other watchdogs have flagged for potential violations of international humanitarian law, cases now under examination by the International Court of Justice.In 2024, the company reported $71 billion in revenue, almost entirely from military contracts, with more than 1,100 F-35s already delivered worldwide and production lines running hotter than ever. That staggering scale is the reality lurking beneath a logo now casually printed on everyday apparel.So why does the planet’s largest arms manufacturer license its brand to streetwear? The answer seems to be twofold: easy money and sophisticated image laundering. Licensing delivers low-risk royalties from Korea’s reported $35-40 billion apparel market with virtually no operational headache. Lockheed simply collects checks while a third-party manufacturer handles design, production, distribution, and deals with all the mess of retail.The far more ambitious goal, however, is reputational refurbishment. Doojin deliberately markets the line around “future-oriented technical aesthetics” and “aerospace innovation,” leaning on cutting-edge fabrics to conjure high-tech futurism instead of battlefield carnage. By late 2025, as U.S. favorability in South Korea continued to slide amid trade tensions and regional geopolitical shifts, the brand quietly de-emphasized its American roots, according to Lockheed representatives. The strategy clearly tries to sever the logo from political controversy and plant it firmly in youth culture, where aesthetic appeal routinely outmuscles ethical concern.Lockheed has honed this kind of rebranding for decades. Their corporate brochures overflow with talk of “driving innovation” and “advancing scientific discovery,” spotlighting STEM scholarships, veteran hiring initiatives, and rapid-response disaster aid. The clothing itself carries the same sanitized messaging. One prominent slogan reads “Ensuring those we serve always stay ahead of ready”, euphemistic corporate-speak that sounds heroic until you remember that “those we serve” includes forces deploying Hellfire missiles against civilian targets. Other pieces feature F-35 graphics paired with copy declaring the jet “strengthens national security, enhances global partnerships, and powers economic growth”. It’s textbook PR varnish. Instruments designed for lethal efficiency, now rebranded as symbols of progress and prosperity.We’ve also seen this trick before: Fast fashion brands that slap “sustainable” labels on sweatshop products. Tech giants that fund glamorous art installations while they harvest user data. Oil companies that rebrand themselves as forward-thinking “energy” players as the Earth’s climate burns. Lockheed, though, traffics in something uniquely irreversible: export-grade death. By licensing its identity to apparel, multibillion-dollar arms contracts are reduced to mere intellectual property; civilian casualties dissolved into, simply, background static.In other words, vibes overpower victims. And when those vibes are stamped with the logo of the planet’s preeminent death merchant, resistance feels futile.Gorpcore has always drawn from military surplus for its rugged utility: endless cargo pockets, indestructible nylons, tactical silhouettes born in combat and repurposed for city streets. Brands like Arc’teryx, The North Face, and Supreme mine that heritage for authenticity and performance. After World War II, army fatigues became symbols of genuine rebellion, worn by anti-war protesters as an act of defiance against the establishment. Today, the dynamic threatens to invert entirely. The establishment itself, the world’s preeminent arms dealer, now supplies the “authentic” merchandise, turning subversion into subtle endorsement.Streetwear grew out of skate culture, hip-hop, and grassroots rebellion against mainstream norms. Importing the aesthetics of atrocity risks converting that legacy into compliance, rendering militarism the newest version of mainstream cool. For a generation immersed in filtered feeds and rapid trend cycles, Lockheed’s logo can sit comfortably beside NASA patches or National Geographic emblems, conveniently severed from the charred wreckage in Saada or the devastation in Gaza. Research on “ethical fading” demonstrates how strong visual design can mute moral alarms, a phenomenon intensified in Korea’s hyper-trendy ecosystem, where mandatory military service may further desensitize young consumers to defense branding while K-pop’s global engine drives relentless consumption.If the line proves durable, escalation feels inevitable. Palantir, another cornerstone of the defense-tech world, has already gone there, hyping limited merch drops that sell out in hours: $99 athletic shorts stamped “PLTR—TECH,” $119 nylon totes, hoodies emblazoned with CEO Alex Karp’s likeness or slogans about “dominating” threats. What’s to stop Northrop Grumman from launching its own techwear line? Or BAE Systems from dropping high-end collaborations?Lockheed already licenses merchandise worldwide through various agencies; broader international rollouts beyond Korea seem only a matter of time. Backlash is possible, boycotts from ethically minded buyers, perhaps even regulatory scrutiny as anti-militarism sentiment swells. Gorpcore’s longstanding flirtation with military aesthetics could calcify into outright fetish, obliterating whatever daylight remained between practical function and state-sanctioned propaganda.Yet, history suggests that in oversaturated markets, “cool” almost always trumps conscience. Lockheed’s streetwear pivot is a stark illustration of how fashion and culture launder raw power, enabling the machinery of war to conceal itself among hype, hoodies, and sold-out drops."
}
]
}