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Cassandra Mayela Allen
WARD: Can you introduce yourself?
CASSANDRA: My name is Cassandra Mayela Allen. I am originally from Venezuela, and I’ve been in New York for the past 11 years. I work mostly with textiles, but I also work in a variety of mediums. I’m really interested in creating a practice that revolves around participatory and communal social work.
WARD: For Slow Forest, you’re sharing a piece of “BRAIDED PRAYER I” [2024], and you have a participatory performance guiding it through the piece. How do you think the setting of Slow Forest will change the context of that work?
CASSANDRA: Well, as you know, I’m currently at Skowhegan, and being here, I’m definitely in nature. When I first planned to come here, I packed a bunch of stuff thinking that I would be focusing on a certain kind of practice or projects, and I basically didn’t touch any of those things. I mainly focused on creating site-specific works, and I developed a net made out of these braids that’s going to be left out here. I recently learned very basic welding, so attaching the weavings could also be something fun. It truly depends on how or where we want to set it up. In a previous residency I did in Uruguay, I extended the thousand-foot-long braid along a path, which was special as a guide through a meditation path. But here, in contrast to those works, the forest “eats” the braid, if that makes sense. It’s thin and spread out, whereas in more compact compositions, there’s a dialogue between the work and the space that I think I’m more interested in exploring. Letting a space guide your work into creating something else has been fun.
You can’t be too precious or too methodical: A, when working with people in manual labor, because we all have different ways of making, and B, when installing in a site-specific space, especially outdoors, because the work is in conversation with the space. It’s been fun to see spiders building webs in the gaps of the net, or fabrics starting to sun-bleach because they’re out in the elements. That, in my opinion, adds to the work in an ephemeral way. It’s creating its own life.
WARD: One thing I love about your work is that it has a tangible use. You can feel it as a blanket or rope. I was looking at “Bodega Quilts” [2025] and could imagine covering myself with them. Even with braids, there’s so much historical context—as beauty, but also as utility. What drew you to work that is so rooted in craft?
CASSANDRA: I agree. I’m always trying to challenge notions of what can be utilitarian but also hold metaphor in that utility. It’s not just covering in a practical sense, but emotionally, feeling contained in community. Same with the net. You build the net to play, but we were trying to keep the ball in the air as long as possible, a way of holding or lifting each other up.
WARD: Your work is also tactile and ritualistic, expressing these elements through braiding, clothing, and tapestry. What are you accessing internally in your process, and how do you connect it to your history and surroundings?
CASSANDRA: For me, working with my hands is definitely an active meditation. It’s how I channel and process anxiety, calm down, and ground myself. That energy comes through my hands; it’s soothing. I’m more interested in the process of making than the conceptual part—not that there’s no concept, but I’m more excited about the making.
This connects to life in the city, carving space for yourself and connecting with others through making. A lot of artists in the Western understanding work alone in a studio, which can be isolating. I enjoy making by myself, but I’m flexible about what my studio can be. I can cut and braid fabric on the subway. I can work during a studio visit while chatting. It’s two streams of release and engagement, making the load easier because so much is repetitive and tedious at times.
I don’t work with fibers. I work with discarded clothing and fabric, material already here. I hate the concept of waste, which only exists in our modern human world. In nature, there’s no waste: leaves fall and compost, feeding the soil; metal rusts and returns nutrients to the earth. But humans put everything in garbage bags and hope for the best.
Growing up in Venezuela taught me that resources aren’t infinite. Even though larger powers could make big changes and don’t, my small protest is to reuse and repurpose. I’d rather work with materials considered waste than buy new canvas or fabric. As for ritual, society often frames ceremony as needing a temple, priest, or extraordinary setting. I believe there are many ways to tap into the ceremonial in the mundane. That communion when making with people feels sacred.
WARD: Earlier, you mentioned growing up in Venezuela and how it shaped your work and use of donated fabrics. Could you elaborate on how growing up affected your process and philosophy?
CASSANDRA: Growing up in a failing state as I became an adult shaped how I think—not just in art, but in life. In the U.S., many take certain things for granted because they’ve never seen the end of them. Experiencing state failure and lacking access to basics like water and electricity makes you resourceful. Crisis teaches you to see things differently and make something out of nothing.
I also come from a very fragmented society. This made me conscious of the need to focus on what people have in common rather than the differences. In my practice, I initially wanted to bring the Venezuelan diaspora together through a tapestry of stories, a physical space for healing and communication. But I learned that migration often means parting radically with roots, and some aren’t ready to revisit them. Non-participation became the most common form of participation. So, I shifted my focus to a broader immigrant community, and also to parallels in movement and adaptation that exist even within one’s own country or city.
Longing for home and belonging is universal, and if my work can create empathy rather than displacement, that’s my goal— establishing conversations between people who might otherwise never talk. Even if you come to one of these gatherings and sit next to someone you don’t think you have anything in common with—or don’t agree with—the space itself opens an opportunity for a conversation you wouldn’t normally have. That’s the spark you need to maybe contemplate certain things in your life.
WARD: You’ve also lived in New York for 11 years now. How do you think New York City has changed your practice compared to growing up in Venezuela?
CASSANDRA: New York has given me and taken so much. It’s a city that can embrace you, squeeze you so hard, spit you out, and then take you back again—it’s such a moody girl. It’s been an amazing place to understand what an expansive community can be. A lot of like-minded people navigate here, and things can happen spontaneously if you’re open to them. It’s tall, it’s challenging, and at this point, almost offensive to live in, but it has exposed me to so many backgrounds I never would have met in Venezuela. One of my best friends is from Cambodia; I’ve learned about weaving traditions in the Philippines that are similar to those in South America. New York shows the human part of what life can be, and I’m grateful for that.
WARD: We met in New York years ago.
CASSANDRA: Yes, and that’s a beautiful thing. You meet people in passing, connect, then life gets busy, and later you reconnect. There’s a rhythm to it, like breathing within the city with everyone else. I also love how anonymous it can be—like Where’s Waldo?—and then on a Wednesday in Astoria, you’ll run into someone and think, “I really live in New York.”
WARD: Let’s go back to your fabric use. You work with donated and reworked fabric. Do you feel there’s energetic memory in the clothing?
CASSANDRA: Definitely. When working with clothes people intentionally bring, they’re charged with energy. In gatherings, I ask people to bring something tied to their migratory story, something seen as joy, resistance, or something they want to let go of. This space offers a cathartic outlet, a way to honor and transform it. Even without telling the audience every story, the work holds those layers. You can feel that presence without knowing the details.
WARD: Could you talk about your work “Maps of Displacement” [2021-] and how shipping memory contributes to it? Do you envision an end to the project?
CASSANDRA: I’d love to return to and expand that body of work, but right now it feels precarious given the current persecution of immigrants. When I started “Maps of Displacement” [2021-], I noticed an increase in Venezuelans in New York. Venezuela’s migration is young—only in the past 20 years—and recognized as a crisis internationally for just the past decade. Compared to older diasporas like Mexican, Puerto Rican, Bangladeshi, or Filipino communities, it’s very new. I became curious about why people were choosing New York, which seems hostile if you don’t know the language. The media offered little. Right-wing narratives frame Venezuela as a communist hellhole; left-wing ones romanticize it because it’s a leftist government. Neither side holds it accountable as a dictatorship.
So I started asking Venezuelans to share something from their migratory process, regardless of why they left. I received everything from a childhood stuffed animal to the outfit worn on the day they traveled, to a favorite pair of pants that no longer fit. I kept the request flexible so people could go deep if they wanted, or keep the process internal. I’d love to continue the work, but I’d need more resources and a safer way to do it, given current immigration policing.
WARD: Back to “Braided Prayers I” [2024]—you’ve activated it in different NYC contexts, like Tambao and with Artists and Mothers. How do these contexts affect the work?
That’s something I’m still exploring. Tambao is a Latin American design store; their clientele is warm and festive. That activation felt casual and celebratory. People braided with wine, came with friends, chatted, and moved on to dinner.
CASSANDRA: With Artists and Mothers, the group was all artist-mothers, and the activity took place around Mother’s Day. The braids became reflections on motherhood and art-making—more contained; more intimate. I’ve done family braiding sessions where kids, parents, and grandparents braid together. Every variation adds something; it never subtracts.
WARD: Do you think there’s a greater narrative uniting all these activations?
CASSANDRA: Yes. Unlike “Maps of Displacement” [2021-], which focused on a specific group and experience, the braided activities invite everyone in. That creates space for people from very different backgrounds—some thinking about migration, some not—to see themselves in one another. Braiding itself is universal. It exists in every culture, whether in hair, rope, or textiles. It’s safe, accessible, and easy to learn. That universality allows participation without appropriation. It belongs to everyone.
WARD: When did you realize you wanted to be an artist, and when did you realize you were an artist?
CASSANDRA: I think I realized I was an artist as a child. I’ve always been ingenious and creative, more inclined to making than to science. But coming from a conservative, traditional family in Venezuela, I put it aside for stability. In New York, trying to live a “normal” life made me miserable. I realized there was no other option; this is the only way I can make sense of my life.
WARD: Where did you go to school and what did you study?
CASSANDRA: I studied journalism in Venezuela but dropped out. I later graduated in graphic design. In art, I’m self-taught. No formal art school, though I count Skowhegan as education.
WARD: So much of your work is about memory. Braiding itself is ancient, passed down for thousands of years. Can you tell me your first memory of braiding or being braided?
CASSANDRA: I grew up in Margarita, an island in Venezuela on the Caribbean, and wore braids in my hair— very Caribbean girl. I created tiny braids, transforming my own clothes, and making things unique so they didn’t look like everyone else’s. I went to a bilingual school and befriended braiders at the beach. They wanted more tourist customers but only had signs in Spanish. One day, I brought them a little cardboard sign in English saying “We Make Braids” so they could reach foreigners. They glued it alongside the Spanish one and used both.
{
"article":
{
"title" : "Cassandra Mayela Allen",
"author" : "Cassandra Mayela Allen, Gabrielle Richardson",
"category" : "interviews",
"url" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/readings/heirlooms-cassandra-mayela-allen",
"date" : "2025-09-08 10:09:00 -0400",
"img" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/uploads/78556_CFA_Cassandra_003_09.jpg",
"excerpt" : "WARD: Can you introduce yourself?",
"content" : "WARD: Can you introduce yourself?CASSANDRA: My name is Cassandra Mayela Allen. I am originally from Venezuela, and I’ve been in New York for the past 11 years. I work mostly with textiles, but I also work in a variety of mediums. I’m really interested in creating a practice that revolves around participatory and communal social work.WARD: For Slow Forest, you’re sharing a piece of “BRAIDED PRAYER I” [2024], and you have a participatory performance guiding it through the piece. How do you think the setting of Slow Forest will change the context of that work?CASSANDRA: Well, as you know, I’m currently at Skowhegan, and being here, I’m definitely in nature. When I first planned to come here, I packed a bunch of stuff thinking that I would be focusing on a certain kind of practice or projects, and I basically didn’t touch any of those things. I mainly focused on creating site-specific works, and I developed a net made out of these braids that’s going to be left out here. I recently learned very basic welding, so attaching the weavings could also be something fun. It truly depends on how or where we want to set it up. In a previous residency I did in Uruguay, I extended the thousand-foot-long braid along a path, which was special as a guide through a meditation path. But here, in contrast to those works, the forest “eats” the braid, if that makes sense. It’s thin and spread out, whereas in more compact compositions, there’s a dialogue between the work and the space that I think I’m more interested in exploring. Letting a space guide your work into creating something else has been fun.You can’t be too precious or too methodical: A, when working with people in manual labor, because we all have different ways of making, and B, when installing in a site-specific space, especially outdoors, because the work is in conversation with the space. It’s been fun to see spiders building webs in the gaps of the net, or fabrics starting to sun-bleach because they’re out in the elements. That, in my opinion, adds to the work in an ephemeral way. It’s creating its own life.WARD: One thing I love about your work is that it has a tangible use. You can feel it as a blanket or rope. I was looking at “Bodega Quilts” [2025] and could imagine covering myself with them. Even with braids, there’s so much historical context—as beauty, but also as utility. What drew you to work that is so rooted in craft?CASSANDRA: I agree. I’m always trying to challenge notions of what can be utilitarian but also hold metaphor in that utility. It’s not just covering in a practical sense, but emotionally, feeling contained in community. Same with the net. You build the net to play, but we were trying to keep the ball in the air as long as possible, a way of holding or lifting each other up.WARD: Your work is also tactile and ritualistic, expressing these elements through braiding, clothing, and tapestry. What are you accessing internally in your process, and how do you connect it to your history and surroundings?CASSANDRA: For me, working with my hands is definitely an active meditation. It’s how I channel and process anxiety, calm down, and ground myself. That energy comes through my hands; it’s soothing. I’m more interested in the process of making than the conceptual part—not that there’s no concept, but I’m more excited about the making.This connects to life in the city, carving space for yourself and connecting with others through making. A lot of artists in the Western understanding work alone in a studio, which can be isolating. I enjoy making by myself, but I’m flexible about what my studio can be. I can cut and braid fabric on the subway. I can work during a studio visit while chatting. It’s two streams of release and engagement, making the load easier because so much is repetitive and tedious at times.I don’t work with fibers. I work with discarded clothing and fabric, material already here. I hate the concept of waste, which only exists in our modern human world. In nature, there’s no waste: leaves fall and compost, feeding the soil; metal rusts and returns nutrients to the earth. But humans put everything in garbage bags and hope for the best.Growing up in Venezuela taught me that resources aren’t infinite. Even though larger powers could make big changes and don’t, my small protest is to reuse and repurpose. I’d rather work with materials considered waste than buy new canvas or fabric. As for ritual, society often frames ceremony as needing a temple, priest, or extraordinary setting. I believe there are many ways to tap into the ceremonial in the mundane. That communion when making with people feels sacred.WARD: Earlier, you mentioned growing up in Venezuela and how it shaped your work and use of donated fabrics. Could you elaborate on how growing up affected your process and philosophy?CASSANDRA: Growing up in a failing state as I became an adult shaped how I think—not just in art, but in life. In the U.S., many take certain things for granted because they’ve never seen the end of them. Experiencing state failure and lacking access to basics like water and electricity makes you resourceful. Crisis teaches you to see things differently and make something out of nothing.I also come from a very fragmented society. This made me conscious of the need to focus on what people have in common rather than the differences. In my practice, I initially wanted to bring the Venezuelan diaspora together through a tapestry of stories, a physical space for healing and communication. But I learned that migration often means parting radically with roots, and some aren’t ready to revisit them. Non-participation became the most common form of participation. So, I shifted my focus to a broader immigrant community, and also to parallels in movement and adaptation that exist even within one’s own country or city.Longing for home and belonging is universal, and if my work can create empathy rather than displacement, that’s my goal— establishing conversations between people who might otherwise never talk. Even if you come to one of these gatherings and sit next to someone you don’t think you have anything in common with—or don’t agree with—the space itself opens an opportunity for a conversation you wouldn’t normally have. That’s the spark you need to maybe contemplate certain things in your life.WARD: You’ve also lived in New York for 11 years now. How do you think New York City has changed your practice compared to growing up in Venezuela?CASSANDRA: New York has given me and taken so much. It’s a city that can embrace you, squeeze you so hard, spit you out, and then take you back again—it’s such a moody girl. It’s been an amazing place to understand what an expansive community can be. A lot of like-minded people navigate here, and things can happen spontaneously if you’re open to them. It’s tall, it’s challenging, and at this point, almost offensive to live in, but it has exposed me to so many backgrounds I never would have met in Venezuela. One of my best friends is from Cambodia; I’ve learned about weaving traditions in the Philippines that are similar to those in South America. New York shows the human part of what life can be, and I’m grateful for that.WARD: We met in New York years ago.CASSANDRA: Yes, and that’s a beautiful thing. You meet people in passing, connect, then life gets busy, and later you reconnect. There’s a rhythm to it, like breathing within the city with everyone else. I also love how anonymous it can be—like Where’s Waldo?—and then on a Wednesday in Astoria, you’ll run into someone and think, “I really live in New York.”WARD: Let’s go back to your fabric use. You work with donated and reworked fabric. Do you feel there’s energetic memory in the clothing?CASSANDRA: Definitely. When working with clothes people intentionally bring, they’re charged with energy. In gatherings, I ask people to bring something tied to their migratory story, something seen as joy, resistance, or something they want to let go of. This space offers a cathartic outlet, a way to honor and transform it. Even without telling the audience every story, the work holds those layers. You can feel that presence without knowing the details.WARD: Could you talk about your work “Maps of Displacement” [2021-] and how shipping memory contributes to it? Do you envision an end to the project?CASSANDRA: I’d love to return to and expand that body of work, but right now it feels precarious given the current persecution of immigrants. When I started “Maps of Displacement” [2021-], I noticed an increase in Venezuelans in New York. Venezuela’s migration is young—only in the past 20 years—and recognized as a crisis internationally for just the past decade. Compared to older diasporas like Mexican, Puerto Rican, Bangladeshi, or Filipino communities, it’s very new. I became curious about why people were choosing New York, which seems hostile if you don’t know the language. The media offered little. Right-wing narratives frame Venezuela as a communist hellhole; left-wing ones romanticize it because it’s a leftist government. Neither side holds it accountable as a dictatorship.So I started asking Venezuelans to share something from their migratory process, regardless of why they left. I received everything from a childhood stuffed animal to the outfit worn on the day they traveled, to a favorite pair of pants that no longer fit. I kept the request flexible so people could go deep if they wanted, or keep the process internal. I’d love to continue the work, but I’d need more resources and a safer way to do it, given current immigration policing.WARD: Back to “Braided Prayers I” [2024]—you’ve activated it in different NYC contexts, like Tambao and with Artists and Mothers. How do these contexts affect the work?That’s something I’m still exploring. Tambao is a Latin American design store; their clientele is warm and festive. That activation felt casual and celebratory. People braided with wine, came with friends, chatted, and moved on to dinner.CASSANDRA: With Artists and Mothers, the group was all artist-mothers, and the activity took place around Mother’s Day. The braids became reflections on motherhood and art-making—more contained; more intimate. I’ve done family braiding sessions where kids, parents, and grandparents braid together. Every variation adds something; it never subtracts.WARD: Do you think there’s a greater narrative uniting all these activations?CASSANDRA: Yes. Unlike “Maps of Displacement” [2021-], which focused on a specific group and experience, the braided activities invite everyone in. That creates space for people from very different backgrounds—some thinking about migration, some not—to see themselves in one another. Braiding itself is universal. It exists in every culture, whether in hair, rope, or textiles. It’s safe, accessible, and easy to learn. That universality allows participation without appropriation. It belongs to everyone.WARD: When did you realize you wanted to be an artist, and when did you realize you were an artist?CASSANDRA: I think I realized I was an artist as a child. I’ve always been ingenious and creative, more inclined to making than to science. But coming from a conservative, traditional family in Venezuela, I put it aside for stability. In New York, trying to live a “normal” life made me miserable. I realized there was no other option; this is the only way I can make sense of my life.WARD: Where did you go to school and what did you study?CASSANDRA: I studied journalism in Venezuela but dropped out. I later graduated in graphic design. In art, I’m self-taught. No formal art school, though I count Skowhegan as education.WARD: So much of your work is about memory. Braiding itself is ancient, passed down for thousands of years. Can you tell me your first memory of braiding or being braided?CASSANDRA: I grew up in Margarita, an island in Venezuela on the Caribbean, and wore braids in my hair— very Caribbean girl. I created tiny braids, transforming my own clothes, and making things unique so they didn’t look like everyone else’s. I went to a bilingual school and befriended braiders at the beach. They wanted more tourist customers but only had signs in Spanish. One day, I brought them a little cardboard sign in English saying “We Make Braids” so they could reach foreigners. They glued it alongside the Spanish one and used both."
}
,
"relatedposts": [
{
"title" : "Unpublished, Erased, Unarchived: Why Arab-Led Publishing Matters More Than Ever",
"author" : "Céline Semaan",
"category" : "",
"url" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/readings/unpublished-erased-unarchived",
"date" : "2025-11-13 10:25:00 -0500",
"img" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/uploads/Cover_EIP_Unpublished.jpg",
"excerpt" : "At a moment when news of Gaza, West Bank, South Lebanon, and Beirut are slowly disappearing from the headlines—and from public consciousness—Arab writers face a singular burden: We must write the stories that no one else will print. We live in a media landscape that refuses to see us as fully human. A recent analysis from Giving Compass suggests that traditional media skews Palestinian news: seven major U.S. news outlets found that Palestinian stories were 13.6% to 38.9% less likely to be individualized than Israeli ones. Meaning, Palestinians appear as abstractions—statistics, masses, “civilians”—not as people with names, losses, or lives. Meanwhile, reports from the Centre for Media Monitoring (CfMM) show that UK outlets had a fourfold increase in coverage only when Gaza was framed through the lens of “criticism of Israel,” not Palestinian experience itself.",
"content" : "At a moment when news of Gaza, West Bank, South Lebanon, and Beirut are slowly disappearing from the headlines—and from public consciousness—Arab writers face a singular burden: We must write the stories that no one else will print. We live in a media landscape that refuses to see us as fully human. A recent analysis from Giving Compass suggests that traditional media skews Palestinian news: seven major U.S. news outlets found that Palestinian stories were 13.6% to 38.9% less likely to be individualized than Israeli ones. Meaning, Palestinians appear as abstractions—statistics, masses, “civilians”—not as people with names, losses, or lives. Meanwhile, reports from the Centre for Media Monitoring (CfMM) show that UK outlets had a fourfold increase in coverage only when Gaza was framed through the lens of “criticism of Israel,” not Palestinian experience itself.Against this backdrop of erasure, the scarcity of Arab women’s voices in publishing is even more alarming. A bibliometric study spanning 1.7 million publications across the Middle East and North Africa shows that men publish 11% to 51% more than women. What’s more, women’s authorship is less persistent, and men reach senior authorship far faster. Arab women are not only under-published but also systematically written out of the global record.This is why Slow Factory has founded Books for Collective Liberation, an Arab-led, independent imprint committed to telling Arab stories the way they should be told: authentically, empathetically, and wholly. We publish work that would never survive the filters of legacy publishing: the political hesitation, the “market concerns,” the fear of touching Arab grief, joy, or its future. Independence is not an aesthetic choice; it is the only way to protect our stories from being softened, sanitized, or structurally erased.Our forthcoming title, On the Zero Line, created in partnership with Isolarii, is a testament to that mission. It stands on the knife’s edge where memory is threatened with extinction—a book that documents what official archives will not. It is a testimony that refuses to disappear.But books alone are not enough. Stories need a home that is alive, responsive, and politically unafraid. That is the work of Everything is Political (EIP), our independent media platform and growing archive of essays, investigations, and first-person journalism. In an era where Big Tech throttles dissenting voices and newsrooms avoid political risk, EIP protects the creative freedom of Arab writers and journalists. We publish what mainstream outlets won’t—because our lives, our histories, and our communities, dead or alive, should not depend on editorial courage elsewhere.Together, Books for Collective Liberation and Everything is Political form an ecosystem of resistance: literature and journalism that feed each other, strengthening each other, building memory as infrastructure—a new archive. We refuse the fragmentation imposed on us: that books are separate from news, that culture is separate from politics, that our narratives exist only within Western frameworks. This archive is not static; it is a living, breathing record of a people determined to write themselves into the future.When stories from Gaza, Beirut, and the broader Levant fail to make the news—or make it only as geopolitical abstractions—the result breeds distortion and public consent to eliminate us. It is a wound to historical truth. It erases whole worlds. We will not let that happen.Independent, Arab-led publishing is how we repair that wound. It is how we record what happened, in our own voice. It is how we ensure that no empire, no newsroom, and no algorithm gets to decide which of our stories survive.Tonight, we gather at Palestine House to celebrate the launch of On the Zero Line, a collection of stories, essays, and poems from Gaza, translated in English for the first time. This evening, we are centering the lived experiences of Palestinians from Gaza who have been displaced in London. I have the honor of interviewing journalist Yara Eid and Ahmed Alnaouq, project manager of the platform “We are not Just Numbers.” Here, we will discuss how mainstream literature and journalism have censored us—and how we can keep our stories alive in response."
}
,
{
"title" : "The British Museum Gala and the Deep Echoes of Colonialism",
"author" : "Ana Beatriz Reitz do Valle Gameiro",
"category" : "essays",
"url" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/readings/the-british-museum-gala-and-the-deep-echoes-of-colonialism",
"date" : "2025-11-11 11:59:00 -0500",
"img" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/uploads/the-younger-memnon-statue-british-museum%20copy.jpg",
"excerpt" : "When it comes to fashion, few things are as overblown, overanalyzed, and utterly irresistible as a gala. For instance: hear the name “Met Gala”, and any fashionista’s spine will tingle while every publicist in New York breaks into a cold sweat. While New York has been hosting the original event at the Metropolitan Museum since 1948 and Paris had its Louvre moment in 2024, London finally decided to answer with an event at the British Museum on 18 October this year.",
"content" : "When it comes to fashion, few things are as overblown, overanalyzed, and utterly irresistible as a gala. For instance: hear the name “Met Gala”, and any fashionista’s spine will tingle while every publicist in New York breaks into a cold sweat. While New York has been hosting the original event at the Metropolitan Museum since 1948 and Paris had its Louvre moment in 2024, London finally decided to answer with an event at the British Museum on 18 October this year.The invitation-only event drew high-profile guests such as Naomi Campbell, Mick Jagger, Edward Enninful, Janet Jackson, Alexa Chung, and James Norton. With a theme of ‘Pink Ball,’ the night drew inspiration from the vibrant colors of India and walked hand-in-hand with the museum’s ‘Ancient India: Living Traditions’ exhibition, adding a touch of colonial irony à la British tradition.Unlike its always-talked-about New York counterpart, or Paris’s star-studded affair last year that reunited figures like Doechii, Tyra Banks, Gigi Hadid, and Victoria Beckham, London’s event felt less memorable fashion-wise. With little buzz surrounding it - whether due to a less star-studded guest list, unremarkable fashion, or its clash with the Academy Museum Gala - it ultimately felt more like an ordinary night than a headline-making affair.But the event was not entirely irrelevant. In fact, it prompted reflections rarely discussed in mainstream media. Notably, because in spite of the museum’s sprawling collection of objects from other marginalized countries, the event ‘‘celebrated’’ Indian artifacts looted during colonial rule. Equally noteworthy is the institution’s partnership with BP - the British oil giant whose exports reach Israel, a state that, in the twenty-first century, stands as a symbol of colonialism and the ongoing genocide of Palestinians. And, of course, every penny raised went to the museum’s international initiatives, including an excavation project in Benin City, Nigeria, and other archaeological digs in Iraq.Although excavation is often portrayed as a means of preserving the past, archaeologists acknowledge that it is inherently destructive - albeit justifiable if it provides people with a deeper understanding of the human past. As Geoffrey Scarre discusses in Ethics of Digging, a chapter in Cultural Heritage Ethics: Between Theory and Practice, it matters who has the authority to decide what is removed from the ground, how it is treated, whether it should be retained or reburied, and who ultimately controls it. Something that feels especially relevant when discussing the objects of marginalized communities and the legacies of countries shaped by European colonialism, now just laid bare as trophies to embellish the gilded halls of Euro-American institutions.That the British Museum’s collections were built on the wealth of its nation imperialism is hardly news. Yet the institution, like so many others, from the Louvre to the Met, continues to thrive on those very foundations. As Robert J. C. Young observes in Postcolonial Remains, “the desire to pronounce postcolonial theory dead on both sides of the Atlantic suggests that its presence continues to disturb and provoke anxiety: the real problem lies in the fact that the postcolonial remains.”Although postcolonialism is often mistakenly associated with the period after a country gained independence from colonial rule, academics like Young, Edward Said, Gayatri Chakravorty Spivak, and Frantz Fanon acknowledge that our world is still a postcolonial one, with cultural, political, and economic issues reflecting the lasting effects of colonization. Its aftermath extends beyond labels like “Third World” or the lingering sense of superiority that still marks the Global North; it also fuels a persistent entitlement to our art, culture, and legacy.This entitlement can be seen in the halls of many museums worldwide. And though looting may not always be illegal - as in how these institutions acquire those objects - it is certainly unethical. For decades, scholars and activists have debated that these institutions should restitute the legacies taken from other lands, objects stolen through wars of aggression and exploitation. Still, these museums deliberately choose to hold them, artifacts that bear little cultural resonance for their current keepers, but profound meaning for the people from whom they were taken.But these debates are no longer confined to academic circles. Take Egypt, for instance. Its long-awaited Grand Museum finally opened its doors three decades after its initial proposal in 1992 and nearly twenty years since construction began in 2005. Now fully operational, breathing fresh life into Egypt’s storied past through showcasing Tutankhamun’s tomb among other relics of the country, it is demanding the return of its legacy. Egypt’s former and famously outspoken Minister of Tourism and Antiquities, Dr. Zahi Hawass, for instance, recently told the BBC: “Now I want two things, number one, museums to stop buying stolen artefacts, and number two, I need three objects to come back: the Rosetta Stone from the British Museum, the Zodiac from the Louvre, and the Bust of Nefertiti from Berlin.” Beyond the direct call-out, Dr. Hawass has initiated online petitions demanding the return of the artifacts, amassing hundreds of thousands of signatures. Nevertheless, the world’s great museums remain silent, and the precious Egyptian treasures are still very much on display.With African, Asian, and Latin American legacies still held captive within Euro-American institutions, the echoes of colonialism linger well into the 21st century, keeping the postcolonial order intact. Even fashion, an industry that loves to believe it exists beyond politics, proves such. Whether through events that claim to celebrate certain things but end up being meaningless, the current Eurocentrism that still dominates the industry, or how many labels still profit from the aesthetics of marginalized nations without acknowledgment, fashion, much like museums, reproduces the very hierarchies postcolonial theory seeks to expose.Ultimately, the British Museum’s latest event does not celebrate Indian culture or Nigerian history through its excavation in Benin City. Like so many Euro-American institutions, it reinforces imperial power - masquerading cultural theft as preservation.In fashion as in museums, spectacle too often conceals empire - and beauty, unexamined, can become complicity."
}
,
{
"title" : "Mirror Mirror on the Wall: The Art That Proves How Queer Iran Once Was",
"author" : "Aryana Goodarzi",
"category" : "essays",
"url" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/readings/mirror-mirror-on-the-wall",
"date" : "2025-11-11 11:36:00 -0500",
"img" : "https://everythingispolitical.com/uploads/Amorous_Couple_V%D0%A0-1156-d509fb.jpg",
"excerpt" : "During a graduate school seminar, my professor asked questions - not about my takeaways from the text or theory, but to check her own. I was almost guest lecturing the seminar with her. Some student was always reciting a reiteration of Foucault or Butler. Theory was invoked to replace thought. In the West, discourse always precedes practice. That night class, I fell into what has since become a two-year love affair with a painting - an imbrication of art, politics, and culture.\\My professor introduced me to one of my favorite pieces of art: Amorous Couple, early nineteenth century. Two androgynous figures are framed with a rich palette of oil strokes that refuses governable gender. It’s an insurgency against the taxonomies of gender, sexuality, and nation. The painting doesn’t beg for inclusion in the queer archive; it exposes the limits of the archive itself.",
"content" : "During a graduate school seminar, my professor asked questions - not about my takeaways from the text or theory, but to check her own. I was almost guest lecturing the seminar with her. Some student was always reciting a reiteration of Foucault or Butler. Theory was invoked to replace thought. In the West, discourse always precedes practice. That night class, I fell into what has since become a two-year love affair with a painting - an imbrication of art, politics, and culture.\\My professor introduced me to one of my favorite pieces of art: Amorous Couple, early nineteenth century. Two androgynous figures are framed with a rich palette of oil strokes that refuses governable gender. It’s an insurgency against the taxonomies of gender, sexuality, and nation. The painting doesn’t beg for inclusion in the queer archive; it exposes the limits of the archive itself.Being proud to be Iranian is often thought to be antithetical to queer liberation – the way being a patriotic American is deemed antithetical to queer liberation today. I’ve often felt that these parts of me sit like oil and acrylic paints on a canvas – handled as an impossible pairing, even as they blend. The work – and by “work” I mean our lives – does not plead with, or seek permission from, Whiteness. Art takes us places we would otherwise not be able to access with only words.Art historian Najmabadi, once self-described as art-blind, went to the Brooklyn Museum in 1995, where she “realized doing history only with texts…had actually deprived me of an enormous resource for study, especially for issues of gender and sexuality.” I took in the painting, watching it metamorphose into a mirror. Words have never been able to paint me the way this did.Pieces like Amorous Couple (early 19th century) and A Couple Embracing are not just historical artifacts of queerness, but also a political intervention: an assertion of legitimacy within both art and politics. It takes the allegorical into documentarian. In Qajar era Iran (1789-1925), femininity and masculinity were not attached to gender or sexuality. Qajar Era Iranians didn’t need to “perform” gender in the way Judith Butler wrote about, because gender performance presupposes repeated cultural practices. Those cultural practices weren’t part of Qajar Iran because gender expression or sexual partners did not imply a rigid sexuality. Many paintings make it impossible to tell who is of which gender, or whether their relationship is heterosexual.What was freedom in Iran became a means of oppression in the West. Both Westerners and Iranians were anxious about how their culture would appear to one another. However, Western politicians misread Iranian culture through their own homophobia and influenced how sexuality in Iran is understood. As Michel Foucault might say, the concept of sexuality was not repressed - it was talked about more, politicized, and defined into homosexuality and heterosexuality. Creating these cultural categories expanded the governments reach of power. People have always had sex with the same gender. It wasn’t until the 19th century that they were called “homosexuals,” and put into that category with sociopolitical effects.\Political art simply cannot address tasks that exist entirely outside of the scope of art. Writer Maggie Nelson has said that, “Neither politics nor art is served if and when the distinctions between them are unwillingly or unthinkingly smeared out.” However, art is not apolitical - the archive of cultural production is held by branches tethered to state sponsored social engineering. Curation is an arm of control. It upholds the manufactured illusion that art and cultural institutions are liberal while ensuring compliance with capitalism and censorship. Art takes the allegorical into documentarian. It records, resists, ruptures. When it cannot influence the law, it increases literacy. When it cannot free people, it frees perception. If art cannot legislate freedom but can expand perception, then it is implicated in how freedom itself is imagined. The history of gender in Iran shows that perception is produced by cultural institutions. Najmabadi once wrote that “to be modern was to be gendered.”This production necessitated a “cultural labor” of gendering. This modernization required a labor of gendering – work that constructed and upheld the binary itself. What Najmabadi reveals is that gender was not simply “discovered” or “expressed” but produced. [Gender]queerness was actively removed from literature and the arts. Heteronormalization was also integrated through laws the state enacted. The education system also promoted binary gender through curriculum and school segregation, teaching children the “right” way to be a man or woman. This labor continues in art institutions today, where censorship begins with aesthetics, visually reinforcing the gender binary and censoring cultural institutions.Art and politics have a reciprocal dynamic: art is always one of the first cultural institutions to be censored and defunded. The change in gender aesthetic aligns with the timeline of Iran’s deepening politics with the West. Paintings, like Lovers, began to have one person topless with exposed breasts and another with facial hair. Despite wanting to reject Western influence, the Islamic Republic of Iran (IRI) came to depend on a concept of sexuality corresponding to that of the West more than its own. Along with the art, cultural attitudes began to change, and did so definitively with the 1979 Islamic Revolution. Just as Western influence politicized queerness in Iran, the US’s invasion of itself is rewriting the laws, culture, and curricula it once claimed as part of its freedom.In March 2025, the Trump administration issued an executive order to “Restore Truth and Sanity to American History” by banning art exhibitions involving queerness or gender identities that do not align with the administration’s gender ideology. Trump’s order reads like a decree from the Ministry of Culture – ironically, the kind of censorship the U.S. once condemned abroad. The national gender policy is also transphobic, recognizing only “male” and “female” according to another of Trump’s executive orders. The administration will also pull funding from schools with queer inclusive education.The policies have reverberated through the politicization of art and queerness. In both countries, queerness continues to come up in unquestionably national terms while contemporary politics makes queerness a national threat. There’s a quiet kind of grief that washes over you when you begin to think about the queer/trans families and adults fleeing the country – a country your family fled an authoritarian state for.Trump’s presidency is not a prior condition so much as a confirmation of what has always been. If we lived in a culture that was less homophobic and anxious about the [gender]queer experience, then queerness would be less troublesome - since part of what it’s doing is troubling the assumptions around the construction of sexuality. The US is not yet a gender apartheid, but Qajar era art functions as both witness and warning to countries that claim freedom in the name of patriotism yet repress queerness in the same terms.America is not just a country; it poses a mission: the “free” world. Many queer/trans adults and families are having to choose safety over a sentiment. To be queer in the United States is to be patriotic - because it demands the country invest in its own promise. And criminalizing queerness is not very patriotic when the basis of this country is (supposedly) the unalienable rights of life, liberty, and the pursuit of happiness. Qajar era art paints a time when queerness was not politicized – destabilizing both the Islamic Republic’s homophobic dismissal of queer history and the West’s hold over queer identities.In both the U.S. and the Islamic Republic of Iran, censorship of queer art[ists] is justified through nationalism. The US is a museum of the “free” world, its galleries and libraries where the nation performs itself. Like Iran’s Ministry of Culture, US cultural institutions are curators and librarians, deciding what belongs on the walls and shelves. To have US laws be like that of the IRI’s makes me think of art like Amorous Couple not as subverting the IRI – that’s part of it – but as primarily revealing Islamophobia. The irony is that the Iran being called upon to address homophobia wasn’t even homophobic. Putting queer liberation in terms of only freeing them from the IRI disregards the actual cause: the US. To address the oppressive politics of transphobia and homophobia includes - no, necessitates - taking apart the Western empire. Addressing the politics of transphobia and homophobia doesn’t stop at critique - it necessitates dismantling the Western empire itself.What happens when art can hold queerness in a way that politics cannot? Does it only succeed as art – or can it enact political and cultural change? If political and cultural change cannot be attributed to the piece, is that a failure on any part of the artist or a failure of broader politics? The paintings may not answer these questions, but it pursues them, deepening possibilities. Qajar era Iran can teach the US about the role of art at a historical juncture where the construction of freedom is positioned against self-determination.There is a Western hold on queerness that once made me feel like I wasn’t as Iranian for being queer and not as queer for being Iranian.The artwork reimagined queerness not as a site of fragmentation but as a continuity – testimony to Western efforts that were never entirely successful. Many have so little concern for how an artwork has been politically, culturally, and artistically conceived that they accept art devoid of politics. When art is treated like a luxury, it’s because a culture doesn’t want it to be a tool for liberation. As show cancellations increase in the United States, uncertainty deepens about whether the supposedly liberal politics of the art world are confined to the walls of exhibitions.Ultimately, Amorous Couple confirms that art is not merely archival - it is a political intervention beyond the reach of culture and law."
}
]
}